By Emilie Faure and Marie-Gabrielle Graffin published, updated
We find cashmere everywhere, from popular brands to the shops of avenue Montaigne.But some brands cultivate their universe and their singularity in order to sell much more than a sweater, a garment to supplement of soul.
Why is everyone wearing cashmere today?Because we have never done anything sweeter, warm and comfortable.Comfort: the key word of the time.Because it refers to a certain idea of luxury and is enough to tint with elegance a relaxed outfit.Because it is worn and winter.Because it is offered to others and to yourself.Because it is now accessible and of good quality.And if its democratization does not date from yesterday, a new generation of claws inscribes it in tune with the times, while historic houses compete in creativity to keep his sex appeal to him.
Among the most desirable labels of the moment, these five cultivate their singularity: Pallet of abundant colors or non-shaded natural fibers, Streetwear influence or artisanal spirit, well-stocked boutiques or eshops ... a non-exhaustive selection since many other brandspull out of the game.But all agree on one point: the purchase of a cashmere is never trivial.
Eric Bompard: pull sentimentalDans son dernier livre, L’Homme qui pleure de rire, Frédéric Beigbeder y va fort.The troublemaker writes: "You know you are poor when your sweaters are no longer marked Eric Bompard.Is the Bompard sweater a social marker?"Yes, no doubt," says Agnès Calef, communications director of the house.It remains institutional, a guarantee of quality, luxury and know-how.»With 500,000 pieces knitted each year, the claw founded in 1984 per m.Bompard remains queen in her kingdom.There is the bompard sweater found under the tree, that stung to his mother after years of harsh negotiations, the cardigan of a beloved grandmother, the birth gift ... The arrival of competition, both qualitative andquantitative, does not scare him.On the contrary."The competition never hurts," continues Agnès Calef.It allows you to revitalize the image of cashmere, to no longer consider it as a product that is too expensive and too classic, to advance.We have never changed but we play.Since its acquisition by Xavier Marie in 2018, the brand so far Franco-Française has started a sweet revolution.It extends its empire by opening corners abroad (in the United States, Japan and Korea), and the sale to multi-brand.It remains to be seen whether our friends across the Channel and across the Atlantic will tip the statistics of the best-selling models.For thirty years, the bestseller, all categories combined, turns out to be the two-thread black turtleneck (250 €). Un choix facile? Détrompez-vous: chez Bompard, un simple col roulé est décliné en dix formes et dix tricotages différents! www.Eric-Bompard.com
Kujten: le powerdressing des quadrasCarole Benaroya (venue du monde de la finance) et Stéphanie Eriksson (anciennement à la tête du tricot chez Joseph) ont fait les quatre cents coups avant de se lancer dans l’aventure du cachemire en 2012.The quarantine approaching, the two childhood friends created Kujten (named Mount dominant Altaï, in Mongolia, because all their collections are produced and knitted), determined to make the soft and comfortable sweater a modern alternativeand accessible to the silk blouse.The Minie (€ 175), their best-seller oversized in V-neck and three-quarters, available in twenty-five colors, is day and night."Today you can go to work, go out and be elegant by putting on a sweater, assure the founders.We develop dedicated evening lines with lace details, loose necklines.The sweetness and lightness of the cashmere allow this kind of fantasy.Another success of the Parisian brand, the "Airport Look" - Understand, the comfortable cloakroom that women appreciate to fly without skimping on style: jogging, hooded sweatshirt, stole.As for her organic capsule, unisex and guaranteed without dyeing, at the natural palette of ecru, string and camel (€ 395), she makes the ladies happy.In the boutique freshly opened at number 28 on avenue Victor-Hugo (Paris 16th), the experts mounted a spa from cashmere, to teach customers to wash and take care of their purchases, intended to last a lifetime.www.kujten.com
Alexandra Golovanoff: flatter les femmes Ses pull-overs n’ont de classique que l’apparence.When she leaves her fashion journalist cap to style that of designer, Alexandra Golovanoff is uncompromising.For example, the Mila signature round neck (€ 365), whose curves graze the hip bone, is studied to slide in the front in the belt of the pants and modestly cover the back, when you are sitting.A detail?Yes, but of these details which make the perfection of a garment and ensure a nice worn.Launched in 2016, its small family of knitting is growing: everyday stitches are added pants, dresses, skirts and accessories.After its corner at Bon Marché, a dedicated shop was born this fall (5, rue de Varenne, Paris 7th)."The cashmere thread allows extraordinary nuances, enthuses the Frenchwoman.My starting idea was to play the color card, by offering deaf, subtle shades like a black and navy parade.And not to forget that buying a cashmere is never trivial, it is a precious, intimate purchase.The sweater of a lifetime.»www.Alexandragolovanoff.com
From Future: à la conquête des millennials C’est l’histoire d’un père, Philippe de Hesdin (cofondateur de la marque Kookaï aux légendaires pulls chaussette), et de ses deux enfants, Pauline et Thomas.As a family, they bet, in 2018, to give the taste for this noble material, rather bourgeois, to the young generations.How to do?Start by getting rid of his too smooth and wise image.Asymmetrical forms, logos, positive messages, colors that slam and images to the endorsement: here, cashmere rhyme with streetwear.For the sake of consistency towards its target, the brand offers low prices (from € 59), enough to delight family mothers.The Hesdin supplies in thread in Mongolia-Interior and decline their 40 models for girl and boy, Ultradoux in more than 300 colors.Sold on a dedicated eshop, of race, and in the store of 54, rue de Rennes (Paris 6th). www.fromfuture.com
Uniqlo: pour toutes et à petits prix À chaque passage en magasin, vient l’envie de s’en offrir un autre.They are there, carefully stored, classified by color and collar shape.The price, as soft as the material, challenges: € 89.90.The label, however, "100 % cashmere"."This is our strength," explains Odilia d'Aramon, director of Europe communication of the Japanese giant.The role of Uniqlo, since its creation in 1984, has not changed: offering basic, universal, quality and accessible clothes.»A great value for money, explained by the concept of the brand which, between technology and crafts, entirely internalizes its production, from the supply of materials, to the tincture, to the spinning, knitting and finishing."The UNIQLO cashmere sweater arrived in the shops of the world in 2009, it quickly became a bestseller," continues Ms. d'Aramon.In France, for women, although the round neck is still unanimous for its androgynous side, the turtleneck has gained popularity in recent years.All, always in neutral tones!As in Japan, the French have a sense of beautiful.If they like comfort, they also want elegance.Our cashmere brings together these two wishes, at a noble price.»www.uniqlo.com